Like the citizens of ancient Angkor, Champa, and Ban Chiang, the Mon (or Raman, as they call themselves), are descendents of an advanced civilization. The Mons originated in Manipur, India, and later migrated to the eastern bank of the Irrawaddy in lower Burma where they created a powerful kingdom. Its position near the sea made it a gateway between India and Southeast Asia, contributing to its rise.

At its zenith in the 11th century, it was one of the most prosperous cultures in Southeast Asia. Its wealth, however, ultimately drew the covetous eyes of neighbors who were soon nibbling at the borders. Waves of Burmese invaders over several hundred years wore down Mon resolve. In the 18th century, the Mons were finally overwhelmed and absorbed into the Burmese realm.

Unlike its predecessors, however, Mon culture lives and continues to flourish. While there are still pockets of Mon in Myanmar (Burma), large numbers fled to the Thai kingdom beginning in the mid-19th century and were given sanctuary in places sites they often occupy to this day. They gained renown for their pottery and later as boatmen delivering goods to markets in Bangkok.

Found in Ratchaburi, Sangkhlaburi and Nonthaburi’s Saladaeng district, Mon are most prominent in Phrapadaeng, their longest-established community, Bang Kradi and Koh Kred. Although Mons are now Thai citizens, they quietly observe their own traditions and speak their unique language.

The highpoints of this glowing tradition can be best witnessed each April when Mons celebrate Songkran in their inimitable style. There are also monthly merit-making rituals performed every major Buddhist holy day (the night of the full moon) at Bang Kradi.

These three communities are situated near water because when they migrated from Burma centuries ago they settled along rivers and canals. They pursued their livelihoods utilizing mangrove and attap, and carving paddle boats to transport goods. It is only natural that Mon celebrations focus on the water and that Songkran is the highlight of the festive year.

The Mon Songkran celebrations occur one week later than the Thai celebration on April 13 and offers activities distinct from Thai observances. Foremost among them is the Thai-Raman Flag Ceremony. Each village fabricates a unique centipede banner (so-called for its shape), which is carried in a ceremonial procession along the main road that ends at a temple. There, the banner is draped over the swans, a potent Mon symbol, and atop the pillars that stand in the courtyard.

Throughout the day, villagers play traditional Mon folk games like saba. Rarely-seen Mon dancing is also on display. All can be witnessed in varying forms at Bang Kradi and Koh Kred.

The best-known Songkran fete is at Phrapadaeng. The highlight of the celebrations there is a grand floral parade highlighted by a dozen floats bearing beautiful maidens dressed in traditional Mon costumes.

Koh Kred offers similar entertainments and provides visitors with wonderful photo opportunities of the festival itself and of the multitude of ceramics for which the Mons — and the island — are famous.